![]() If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties following UVB radiation (the same one that comes from the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Other than that, it is a very effective emollient and occlusive that reduces skin moisture loss so it is quite common in smaller amounts in moisturizers.įirstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. It is also more glossy than other oils, in fact, it creates the highest gloss of all natural oils when applied to the skin. dissolves in alcohol but not in mineral oil), and it allows all kinds of chemical modifications other oils do not, hence the lots of Castor oil-derived ingredients. First, it is thicker than other oils, then its solubility is different (e.g. Unlike other fatty acids, ricinoleic acid has an extra water-loving part (aka -OH group) on its fatty chain that gives Castor Oil several unique properties. So what is so special about it? The answer is its main fatty acid, called ricinoleic acid (85-95%). You would be reasonable to think that putting shoe polish on your face wouldn’t be the best idea, but it turns out castor oil has some unique properties that make it a stalwart in thick and gloss-giving formulas (think lipsticks and highlighters). It is an age-old ingredient (it’s over 4,000 years old!) with many uses including as a shoe polish, food additive and motor lubricant. Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)Ĭastor oil is sourced from the castor bean plant native to tropical areas in Eastern Africa and the Mediterranean Basin. She also uses a brush in circular motions to blend the rest.Microcrystalline Wax \Cera Microcristallina\Cire MicrocristallineĬopernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax\Cera Carnauba\Cire De Carnauba 439 likes, 13 comments - MAC Pro/MAC Cosmetics (macpro) on Instagram: Having. In Powell's underpainting tutorial, you see her carefully use a combination of patting and blending motions to buff the contour in with her fingers. ![]() You can also try the Best of Beauty-winning Em Cosmetics So Soft Multi Faceplay stick bronzer, too.Īs for application, the motions you use can vary. Greenberg uses the Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Contour Wand. For deeper skin, I use dark brown shades from the Make Up For Ever Flash Palette," says Nelson. "It's the perfect contour color for a range of light-to-medium skin tones. Nelson likes to use MAC Pro Paintstick in Deep Brown. To create the contour, all the makeup artists say that they prefer to use cream bronzers because the texture lends a more natural, skin-like finish. ![]() ![]() You also have the option of adding the highlighter after the contour, as we see in this video Powell made about underpainting. Nelson, Powell, and Greenberg all say they apply foundation all over the face with a Beautyblender after the blush, then they add a highlighter on top. Nelson says to start with contour before blush and highlighter. Now that you've got all your products in order, it's time to apply them. ![]()
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